A garment can have more than one surface. The first layer between skin and fabric, a second texture laid over it and a hem that changes shape with movement each do a different job within the same design. That is why lace, satin and tulle are not simply materials brought together; they are tools that describe where a garment becomes defined and where it lightens. In Natalie Kolyozyan's Relief AW26 collection, this relationship can be read especially through the Marquina Dress and other designs with lace and tulle details.

The line of lace, the surface of satin: two separate movements

On smooth, light-catching areas, satin can heighten the sense of flow. Lace, with the spacing, density and lines of its motif, builds a more fragmented visual structure. This contrast can create a transition between a more defined form at the bodice of a dress and a softer movement that continues downwards. The material names used here are limited to those in the product descriptions; describing a piece as "silk satin", for example, would require separate technical information.

The Marquina Dress is described as a satin dress with a lace bodice and an asymmetric tulle skirt. The lace at the top makes the bodice visually denser, while the satin and asymmetric tulle skirt let the silhouette read more fluidly towards the hem. The hemline does not end at a single straight level; the asymmetry is a design decision that conveys movement even when the wearer is still. View product: Marquina Dress

In the collection, the Marquina Dress appears in Look 7 alongside the Obsidian Leather Jacket. The sharper outline of the oversized black leather jacket gives a different weight to the delicate lines the dress builds with lace and tulle. It is one of the existing pairings that show lace and satin need not be thought of only on their own or for a single occasion.

What does tulle change at the hem?

The role of tulle is sometimes seen across a whole garment, sometimes only at one edge. The asymmetric tulle skirt of the Marquina Dress changes the way the eye follows the point where the fabric ends. Instead of a hard finish, a moving contour appears. This reading makes no claim about the exact technical structure or transparency of the tulle; it describes the visual effect of the design.

Among Relief's other pieces, the Wave Trousers are described as black mesh tulle trousers with ruffles down the sides. Here tulle moves from being an edge that lightens a dress to the centre of the trouser shape itself. The piece is linked to Look 6 and Look 30, making it a useful comparison of how one material can take on different roles in two different garments.

Tracery and Lattice: two layers that are not the same

The Tracery Lace Bodysuit is described as a turtleneck bodysuit in floral lace. In this design, lace is not a detail on one part of a dress but the main visual character of the top. The same family includes the Tracery Lace Blouse, also described in floral lace with a turtleneck. Similar names are not enough to say that the two pieces are the same in cut or use. View product: Tracery Lace Bodysuit

The Lattice Bodysuit offers a different surface: it is described as a turtleneck bodysuit in dotted tulle. That is why it would be wrong to call it lace. The linear effect of a lace motif and the rhythm of dotted tulle are different. Both can play a part in layering, but treating similar-looking pieces as the same technical material erases the difference between the designs. View product: Lattice Bodysuit

Relief's naming system comes into play here too. Tracery and Lattice belong to the collection's family of structure and form. Evoking architectural ornament and woven screens, these names point to ideas of silhouette and detail, not to any real building material in the pieces.

How to wear lace under a blazer

When layering lace and tulle pieces, the first decision may be how much of the texture you want to show. Under a broad-shouldered, sharply cut blazer, a lace collar or upper bodice can be left visible, so that the structured outer layer is answered by a more animated texture within. Pairing Relief's Basalt Blazer with Tracery is a new styling idea of this kind; it is not presented as a look from the collection.

For a lighter language of layering, it may be better not to set the pattern of the tulle against another busy motif. The dotted Lattice Bodysuit can show its own rhythm more clearly with a plain lower piece. On the other hand, for those who want to set pattern against pattern, lace beside jacquard creates a deliberate tension. At the heart of the styling idea is not "which piece is more correct?" but which detail will lead.

Not reading a satin dress only as eveningwear

The combination of satin, lace and asymmetric tulle in the Marquina Dress offers a strong editorial look. But being visually striking does not tie a design to a single occasion. A different outer layer, shoe line or level of accessories can change how the dress reads. The black leather jacket pairing in Look 7 shows that lace and satin can be considered in the same composition as a more structured outer layer.

When building a new look, details such as not covering the asymmetric hem, or which part of the lace bodice stays visible, are worth considering. These are suggestions about visual composition, not about comfort or durability. The lining, transparency, measurements and care of the actual piece should be checked against the verified product information.

Where fabrics speak to each other

The central idea of Relief AW26 is how a surface gains depth. Lace, satin and tulle ask that question from a different place than a heavy architectural form. Lace adds line to the surface, satin spreads the light, and tulle opens room for movement at the edge of the silhouette. Having translucent layers like these alongside references to stone and architecture is a reminder that the collection does not rely on sharp lines alone.

A garment's character sometimes lies not in a single detail, but in how different surfaces appear at the same time. The lace and tulle of Marquina, the floral motif of Tracery and the dotted tulle of Lattice are examples that complement one another without replacing one another.

Discover Relief AW26's interpretations of lace, satin and tulle.

Read the story of the collection, which begins in Istanbul.